Wednesday, April 4, 2018

Hands Free Jig

UPDATED:
Added Details and Links


In the past I successfully have used "Hands Free Soldering Jigs", but I wanted more functionality.

I found on ebay Machinist Magnetic Indicator Dial Gauge Holders, with a little 3D Printer Designed Adaptor they could be used as a Hands Free Soldering Jig.

A single Knob adjust and locks all three major joints.


In this case, the yellow alligator clip adapter was 3D Printed.


Also, another adapter (black) was printed, and a "Hat Pin" heated and inserted. This makes for a very nice PCB probe, an Oscilloscope probe can be attached to the top of the pin.



Once adjusted, these Dial Indicator Holders are "Rock Solid", once positioned they stay put, allowing for precise probing.  I use tape to hold board under test to the bench (thanks, Jeff - KO7M).



If used, the Magnet Base needs a stable steel attachment point, in my case, my bench edge is metal and provides as necessary.   The Magnet Base could be abandoned for something that could be attached to a wooden bench.

-- Home Page: https://WA0UWH.blogspot.com


Monday, April 2, 2018

Test Lead Rack - For my eShop

In my Electronics Shop, space and organization is always a challenge.  The following 3D Printed Test Lead Rack will help.

An Interactive Link To The Design

I designed the Test Lead Rack with Fusion 360 as one of my efforts to learn this new (to me) software.  I had been using Sketchup for most of my previous projects, but the lure of Parametric Design is to great to NOT switch to Fusion 360.  Also, a lot of public available designed parts are available from Fusion 360.

Now 6.5 hours later after design, the 3D Printer provides the Results:



And now, it is in use:



-- Home Page: https://WA0UWH.blogspot.com


Sunday, January 7, 2018

3D Printer - MY Noob Mistakes


As posted before, I have been playing with a new TEVO Little Monster 3D Printer, I have made a LOT of Noob mistakes that could have been avoided if I had only knew.

The following are notes to myself.

o. Do not turn off the power to the 3D Printer unless you are certain that the Hot-End has cooled down. if not, removing power to the 3D Printer will cause the filament to melt within the Cold-End and then a complicated repair method will be required to fix the problem.

o. Remember, 3D Printing is very SLOW, it is much slower than waiting for paint to dry.

o. Remember the hot-end is VERY HOT, I have several burns to remind me.

o. Learn how to set the Z zero Height to within a paper thickness of the print bed, or nothing will work correctly until you do, no mater how hard you try.

o. Buy several sets of Print Head replacement parts, for the; Cold-End, Thermal Break, and Hot-End.

o. Consider buying some Tetrahydrofuran (THF) , it is the only effective thing that will dissolve PLA (for Hot-End  clean and repair), and it can be used to glue PLA parts together. Or at least that is what google suggests.

o. Note, MOST often Hot-End repair work will be done while it is HOT (about 210 C, or more), other wise PLA will be hard and not easily removed.

o. For my use, Blue Painter Tape works best for the Printer Bed, it has some texture that will show up on the printed part, but PLA stick very good to it. A roles of Blue Painters Tape (10 inches wide) are available on-line for about $50, and worth every penny, it makes bed prep very easy.

o. If the Hot-End is disassembled, for cleaning or repair, remember it has to be re-assembled and tightened while at intended operating temperature, for me that is about 215C.  If not, it WILL leak.


Note: I will add to this list as I learn more.


-- Home Page: https://WA0UWH.blogspot.com