Wednesday, September 20, 2017

Reduction Gears

Sorry, this is not an Amateur Radio post.

After many months of working with a 3D Printer, I have finally successfully created a working set of interlocking reduction gears, each section provides a 7:1 reduction. This device is about 2 inches in diameter, the total reduction is 14:1.

The original Ring Gear from Thingiverse was modified to create this multi-stage Reduction Gear. My contribution was to modify it as necessary and join two sets together.

Sketchup Model
The transfer plates (with the connecting pins) were assembled by adding the center HEX pin after printing.  Each of the two Reduction Cluster were printer as an assembled single object on the printer. No cleanup or filing was necessary.

Silicon grease is used for lube.

I may increase the size (and with other modification) this could be used as a Light Weight Field Day Antenna Rotor.

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Wednesday, May 3, 2017

Lost Friends

This week has not been a good week, very sad, two of my Ham Radio Friends have passed away.

Doug Phillips - W7RDP  (SK) a good friend from the local Pacific QRP Group (pQRP).

Don Sehulster - K7QYP / W7LSC  (SK) - a very good Navy Buddy (1968-1972).

73 - My Friends . . .  K

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Sunday, April 30, 2017

First 3D Printer

I purchased a 3D Printer, and just now learning how to use it, there is a lot to learn.

After many trials and failures, I have successfully printed the equivalent of "Hello World" for 3D Printers, which is the "3DBenchy". This online part was designed to be a torture test for a 3D Printer, with many under-cuts, over-hangs and fills, that are somewhat difficult. This part is about 2.5 inches long.

My Printed 3DBenchy Results
3DBenchy was actually about my 10th attempt at print anything, the first few parts went horribly wrong.

Here are a few of my initial prints of a part of my own design, obviously I did not know what I was doing.

Things got better with practice and understanding of the 3D Print process and control parameters.

The above is a replacement part for an Orbital Sander, this part is no longer available from the manufacture, it will eventually be printed with Black ABS Plastic, which is similar to the original. I designed this part with FreeCAD and used Slic3r for the G-Code output for the 3D Printer.  For me, FreeCAD has a steep learning curve.

And, then . . .

On the next part, a Cable Chain of my own design, I must have lost the magic !!

But finally, things got better with practice.

Cable Chain Links
The First Two Links of a Cable Chain.
I am currently printing four Cable Links with newer/better design, I will report the results. For these link design, I have used Sketchup and Slic3r. For simple designs Sketchup is easy to use, as long as you only need "Union" style of object creation, that is, objects that touch are automatically joined together (union'd) when exported as an STL file. STL files are needed by Slic3r.

Four Cable Chain Links
About 2/3 Complete

This is fun, I think I am going to enjoy my new 3D Printer.

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Tuesday, March 7, 2017

Esp8266 WebServer Farm - Again

After several long months, I have reactivated my Esp8266 WebServer Farm.

Use this links to all of my Esp8366 project blog posts.

Esp8266 WebServer Farm

Currently, one of my WebServers can be accessed as:

The main reason that it has be off-line, is lack of interest, and recently, I could only get the code to compile on the old Arduino IDE (Rev 1.6.x).  The code is quite large and I took advantage of many "tabs" for code fragments, which are concatenated before presented to the compiler.  The new Arduino IDE Revision (1.8.1) is much more strict regarding Header Files, code files, and program structure. There were just TOO MANY errors to correct to keep my interest in solving the problem.

Once started to solve the problems and not getting much accomplished, my Friend Jeff - Ko7m, suggest another IDE, he suggested "PlatformIO IDE".

With little work, I found and installed PlatformIO, but alas, I found similar problems and concerns with it.  But little-by-little after much on-line reading, Jeff and I worked out the best file structures that worked with PlatformIO.

I have not moved the new code structure to GitHub, but maybe soon.

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Saturday, January 14, 2017

My Soldering TIP #1

Several years ago my trusty Weller Soldering Iron failed, knowing that most of my projects were going to use small SMD parts, I ordered a fancy replacement, a Hakko FX-888 Soldering Station (about $90.00) with several assorted tips, some really small tips for SMDs. The tracking information, revealed that it would be in my hands in about three weeks.

But, I needed a replacement Iron NOW, to finish a project. I went to Frys, and found a cheapy Iron that I thought I could use (about $29.00), it was a Hakko Presto 980-V12/P. It had only one smallish chisel tip, but I thought it could be used for some larger SMDs.

Well, now several years later, the expensive Hakko FX-888 with its small tips is VERY seldom used (maybe about 3%), while the cheap Hakko Presto 980-V12/P is used for most (if not all) of my projects, and I am still using the original TIP. If you have seen my projects (typically on a 0.5in x 0.7in PCB boards) you might think the FX-888 would be more appropriate, but I fould it is not.

The following are some of my projects where the Hakko Presto 980-V12/P was used:

HomeBrew Double Sided
Si570 Board
HomeBrew Double Sided Project
These are 0805 Caps, and SOT-223 Voltage Reg
I like and use the Hakko 980-V12/P, it has "Two Temps, 20W normal, and 130W push button switch", very seldom have I used the 130W button.

I have recently purchased a second Hakko 980-V12/P for my tool box.

Today I think the Hakko 980-V12/P is priced about $60.00, if you are interested in online purchase, google is your friend. see:

I think you will like it.

BTW: I use a "wall outlet timer" to supply power to my soldering irons, if I forget, the timer turns off power to them after about 45 minutes, which saves the soldering TIPs.

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