My Preferred Soldering Iron

Several years ago, my very old and faithful Weller finally died, and its replacement, the Wahl - Cordless also died (or was dying). I had always wanted a Hakko 888, so I put one on order along with several tips, of different types and sizes.

But I needed a reliable Soldering Iron for a project that I was working on, and I needed the Soldering Iron NOW! I could not wait for the postal service!

So, I went to Radio Shack or Frys (do not remember which) and found a Hakko 980-V12/P to finish my project. I thought it would be a good (junker) backup iron, as it uses the same tips as the Hakko 888 that I had on order (so I thought, . . . NOT). Well it does not! The tips are different.

Now, after many months of having all three Irons on the bench, I prefer the cheap Hakko 980 (with the standard tip) for most things that I solder, even down to the occasional 0201 resistors. Most of my projects use 0804 or 0603 parts. I use the same old stand that I used with the Weller, along with the wire pad tip cleaner. The new Hakko 888 is very seldom turned on.

Hakko 980 on the far Left
Hakko 888 on the Right
Wahl at the Upper Right

The Hakko 980 has dual heat modes; 20w and 130w. A simple push of a button increases the heat, and only if necessary (very seldom used). A one or two second press of the yellow button on the handle, is generally all that is ever needed.

My dying Wahl is standing in the back (yellow, upper right), it was nice for a while, but its finger switch became too temperamental and needs constant attention, see previous post.

Knowing what I know now, if I were buying a Soldering Iron - I would ONLY buy the Hakko 980-V12/P, which is much cheaper than a Hakko 888, and more reliable than the Wahl.

---

UPDATE

For reference, I originally provided Amazon links for the Hakko Soldering Irons listed on this post, but now it appears that all of my links are no longer working (what up with that, Amonzon?), so I replaced them with generic Google Links. I hope the Hakko 980 is actually still available?

--

A Solution for the Solder Sponge - Cont'd

It has been 14 days since I soaked my Solder Sponge with Propylene Glycol (PG), see previous post.

After being soaked, excess PC was squeezed out of the Sponge, so the test was started with a ready-to-use moist Sponge at my Solder Station.

After 14 days, the results are very good, the Sponge is still slightly moist, pliable and readily accepts water (or more PG). Normally by this time, the Sponge would have shriveled to a water-repellent cinder - the Crispy Critter.

Propylene Glycol is cheap, non-toxic, and is readily available as a pink liquid from the Hardware and RV stores, as Potable Water Tank Antifreeze.

I consider the lessons learned, from my previously spilled PG event, a success.

CAUTION, Do not confuse PG with Ethylene Glycol (a toxic automotive antifreeze) which ingestion can result in death.

--

A Solution for the Solder Sponge

Do you get annoyed, each time you start a soldering task, and find the solder-tip-cleaning-sponge has dried out to a Crispy Critter?

Yes, I know it's an old Soldering Iron,
but, it works.

And, that Critter, does not want to readily absorb water?

What a pain!

There may be a Solution.

For the last week or so, I have been experimenting with Tin Plating Methods for my Homebrew PCB Projects. For this, I have read and learned a lot of chemistry. In the Electroplating Industry, Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) is used to; slow the growth of Tin Whiskers, and to keep the new Tin Plated surface smooth and shiny. The PEG shields the sharp crystal growth points, while allowing other non-pointed areas to attract more Tin. The results is a much better, even Tin plated deposit.

I did not have PEG to use for my Homebrew plating experiments, but I had a similar material Propylene Glycol (PG) which has similar properties. I have some PEG on order, but for now PG seems to work.

But then, "While working in my Lab, late one night . . . ", I discovered a paper towel that had been previously used to wipe-up spilled PG, it had not dried! It was still moist and soft.

I remembered from my previous research, PG and PEG are used in many products in industry like; food, medical, and toothpaste. PEG and PG are used to attract and/or retain moisture (it is hygroscopic).

Maybe this is the Solution. If so, this is just exactly what my Crispy Critter (the solder-tip-cleaning-sponge) needs, I soaked the sponge in PG. So far, it seems to stay moist much longer, and it readily accepts more water (or more PG).

More (or longer) observation is clearly needed, and I will post an update later.

-

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) is available on the Internet as Wood Stabilizer at 10 pounds for about $50.00, or at the Drug Store as a Laxative in 4 oz containers for about $5.00, at Costco also a Laxative.

Propylene Glycol (PG) is available at Chemical Store, or at most; Hardware, Auto, and RV Supply stores, as "pool or potable water antifreeze", this is what I used to soak my Crispy Critter.

Both are environmentally friendly and not toxic.

-

CAUTION, Do not confuse either of the above with Ethylene Glycol (a toxic automotive antifreeze) which ingestion can result in death.

--

Soldering Iron Casualty - Work Lamp

I worked on a SMT QRP RF Power Amp Circuit until very late last night, near the end, my cordless Soldering Iron was just keeping up, if I let it set in it's charger every few minutes. It was very late (early AM) when I quit. To avoid a low battery for the next day (today), the last thing that I did was make sure that the Soldering Iron was on Charge mode.

This morning, I grabbed the Soldering Iron - fully charge and started work - on the very first try the work lamp blew out, with a bright flash. Too much charge or an old lamp on my new Soldering Iron. Dang!

The replacement lamp is about $5.00 and it would take several days to arrive.

The lamp probably draws about 250ma, which is a waste of my cordless Soldering Iron Charge.

I think, I am going to look into wiring up an LED - I normally do not need the light to see the work.  For me, the light brightness is an indicator of heating status.

So, now I have yet another project!

-

Soldering Iron Fix

While working on a SMT project, my finger was getting tired of holding the "heat" button on my new Soldering Iron. See previous post.

Sometimes the Iron would NOT heat up as fast as normal, and the work light would not be as bright.  Wiggling the switch would correct the problem, but a lot of pressure was necessary to hold it ON.

I had a similar problem before, and noticed then that the plastic button seemed to be melting on the inside at the point where it pushes on the copper spring switch.  When pressed, the copper spring is pushed down onto a screw head to make electrical contact. To help avoid the button from getting hot and melting, I place a small piece of heat tape over that area of the spring. I thought that was going to solve the problem - but NO. The  heat from the copper spring was being generated by the "bad contact" between it and the screw. And the added pressure needed was still making my finger tired and the strain would cause my hand to shake (a little) - which is not good for SMT work.

This had to be fixed!

I though, I may have to replace the switch with something with a more positive contact. Why did "they" make such a dumb switch for this thing?

I decided to take it apart and fix it, again. I could see where the contact seemed to be marred from heat, but what to do about it? What I need is something that would help make a better positive connection.

I found it - I placed a small drop of NOALOX - an Anti-Oxidant Joint Compound, on the head of the phillips screw, see the black dot at centre of photo.

Now the Soldering Iron works like a champ, I can still recommend the Iron, but suggest, fixing the switch contacts before use.

The back side point of my plastic switch button has been melted a little, but still acceptable, I may need to find a replacement.

Also, I think a small dot of NOALOX on the Tip wire holes will be beneficial, or at least that what I am trying.


OK, the implementation of switch is not dumb, it just had bad contacts.

-

Tin Plating with Solder

Tin Plating with Solder on Home Brew PCB Projects.

On a previous post, a viewer ask via a comment; how did I do a "Solder Wipe"? as shown on one of the example HB PCB Projects.

At the time, I used a Soldering Iron with a little bit of solder and moving back-and-forth over the traces coating each with solder and then while the board is still hot, "Wipe" the solder with a cloth. This produced satisfactory results - but, you have to be quick!

Because I like the looks of bare copper for my projects, "Solder Wipe" is not used very often.

Now, many of my projects are showing their age as the copper tarnishes. I need to start using something more protective on all of my projects.

While removing parts and cleaning-up several old junk board (see below), that are going to be re-used for a SMD solder technique demonstration, I noticed that Solder Wick produced a nice clean dry finish, if it was rubbed over the traces with the heat of the soldering iron.

It looked great! I tried it on the rest of the board - with fantastic results.
 

Without and With Solder Plating

I recommend using a short section of used "Solder Wick" to tin plate (solder plate) new HB PCB projects before parts are loaded.

Used-Wick stays together and provides the small amount of needed solder, New-Wick tends to fall apart (see top left) before it collects enough solder to stay together. Do this task quickly, as you do not want to heat the board more than necessary - it will get HOT.

CAUTION: 
Be Careful, it is HOT

A little bit of liquid "Rosin Flux" helps the plating process (I use MG 835-100ml).

After plating, and Alcohol cleaning,  a quick buff with Scotch Bright removes the shiny surface and avoids the reflections that are so distractive while loading parts.

Note; more Alcohol cleaning is necessary after using Scotch Bright as the LEAD from the solder mars the PCB between the traces.

CAUTION: Remember,

this is "LEAD" that you are touching!

With previous HB PCB (without plating) I always liked to rub a little liquid "Rosin Flux" over the entire board before loading - it gets sticky (rosin is tree sap) and must be dried first, but it provided excellent soldering conditions for SMD parts - I still may continue this practice, even with Solder Plated PCBs. Note: I think rosin will also help seal the edge of the fibreglass PCB.


Now, . . . . if I could only find a way to do a decent Home Brew PCB Solder Resist Mask to seal the board?

-

Fifth Generation QRSS Band Edge Marker

OK, I admit it, I have a obsession for small Home-brew electronic projects.

This is the next iteration of my QRSS Band Edge Marker, my goal is to make it even smaller.

Marker - PCB Art Work

This Home-brew PCB is 1.0 X 0.75 inch; with 15mil traces, 10mil GND Grid, 3pt font, and using 1206 parts.

This is a standard Colpitts Oscillator, with my own modifications for stability.

The black thing in the centre is a L78L05 Voltage Regulator - left of it is a 2N3904 SOT-23. On the bottom row, the third component from the left is a GKY50086 4.5-50pF Trimmer Cap. For this oscillator, the trimmer should have been a smaller value and NPO, but this is only value I have a present.

I normally do not like to cut the leads off of new crystals, but this a dedicated application and this is where it will always be.

I LOVE small parts!

Project on hold, waiting
Soldering Iron Micro Tip Replacement

While working on this project, I changed the tip of my new soldering iron for a larger size to solder the ground wire onto the crystal.  Unfortunately, the micro tip (1/64 inch wide) that I removed is was very fragile and does not like rough treatment - as I found out!

Without a spare micro soldering tip - this project is on hold until replacement (557-7566-100) arrives.

Six replacements tips are now on order - never again do I want to be without a spare.

I only had six more solder joints to make on this project!

My other soldering irons do not have small enough tips, as necessary for this task.

BTW: The photo above was taken through a Ring Magnifier Lamp with a older camera, it is less than expected of a real Macro Lens Camera, but it is OK for my purposes.

-

New Soldering Iron

I have been using the same Soldering Iron for the past 30 years, it is a 60W Weller. I have gone through about 4 tips in that time, and now I am due for a tip replacement,  I need a new "smaller tip" for SMD circuits. I have checked with local suppliers, they just laughed! The tips for my old Weller are getting hard to find, if at all. I will continue to look online, the Iron is still good and I like it.

To keep my projects going, I have decided to look for something new. I have checked the local suppliers and did not find anything that I liked.

About 45 years ago, a "rich" friend of mine, lent me his New State-of-the-Art "Cordless Soldering Iron". It was great, very light, heated fast, and with a work light. But, I thought it was a little small for the soldering tasks of the time.

Well, times have changed!

The other day while ordering some SMD components from Mouser, I ran across the Soldering Iron catalogue page, and there on the page was the "Wahl - Cordless Soldering Iron" (557-7800) just like the one that I had used 45 years ago (at least it looks like the same). I am a little richer now, so I added it to the order. I also ordered the Micro HI-E Tip (557-7566-100).

Soldering Iron and Stand

Fine Tip

Today, the order arrived. After unpacking and installing the Micro Tip and doing some initial test SMD soldering joints - I am very please with my new Soldering Iron. It is much better than I remembered, from long ago. From my perspective - parts sizes have caught up with the iron's ability. The Micro Tip is just right for SMD work - and it's not tied to a wall socket!

It is interesting, after all this time, I am still using 45-Year-Old-Technology, on new tech-SMD projects.

Now, if I can just find a tip for my old Weller,  .  .  .  just to keep in going!


UPDATE 1:

• I took it apart (what else would you have expected - it has screws!).  I noticed after sitting on it stand, it indicated that it was fully charged via a little red LED, also I noticed that the handle was warm (I now know that it must have recently finished charging).
  

• How does it know when it is charged?
  

• Simple, there is a "heat latching breaker" that sits on top of, and in contact with the battery. When the battery get hot the breaker contacts opens, and across the breaker contacts is a limit resistor and LED. I assume the small LED current that by-pass the open breaker contacts provides a trickle charge, probably less than 10mA.
  

• To restart the charging cycle, you are required to reset the breaker via a small slide switch. This seams like a cleaver and reasonable approach to a NiCad charging problem.
  

• Interesting, the breaker is not in the tip heating circuit!?

---

UPDATE: I think this is a link for new Tips for my old 60W Weller:

http://www.action-electronics.com/wect5.htm

• Three Tips are now on order.

UPDATE 2: Finally, after miss-shipment and lots of delays - I received my order on Nov 6, 2009.

--